The K-Beauty Cleansing Dictionary: The Right Korean Cleansing Oil or Balm for Every Skin Type
"'Cleansing oil will break me out' is the most repeated K-beauty myth I hear, usually from people with oily skin, who often benefit most from it. Oil dissolves oil: sunscreen, makeup and the hardened sebum in pores. The real problems are the wrong oil for your skin and rinsing it off before it emulsifies. I've matched two Korean first cleansers to each of five needs, after using every one of them for at least two weeks."
Dictionary Series: 2nd Cleansing · Toner · Serum · Moisturizer · Eye Care · Mask
First: oil, balm or micellar water?
Blackheads and oily skin? A light, rinse-clean oil. Sensitive? A gentle, low-fragrance oil. Dry? A nourishing oil that leaves a soft finish. Waterproof makeup? A balm. Exhausted? A balm with no spatula, or micellar water. Always massage onto dry skin with dry hands, then add a little water until it turns milky before rinsing.
Cleansing oil
Fluid and quick. Best for sunscreen, light makeup and blackheads.
Cleansing balm
Solid in the jar, melts on skin. Best for heavy or waterproof makeup.
Micellar water
Swipe-on, no rinse needed. Best for tired nights and very light makeup.
Balm or oil? Read cleansing balm vs cleansing oil. Next step: the water-based cleanser in the 2nd Cleansing Dictionary.
"I'm scared oil will clog my pores."
Best Korean Cleansing Oils for Oily Skin and Blackheads
Light oils that emulsify well and rinse completely are the ones that win over oily skin.
Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil (200ml)
Jojoba and grape seed oils lift hardened sebum while heartleaf calms. Massage the nose and chin for an extra 30 seconds and you can feel the grits. Alcohol-free, vegan, dermatologically-tested, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients.
Best for: oily, combination, sensitive and acne-prone skin; blackheads.Less suited to: very dry skin.
Shop The Pore Control Oil
Mixsoon Bean Cleansing Oil (195ml)
Soybean and jojoba oils dissolve sunscreen and congestion, and the fermented bean extract leaves skin smooth. Rinses without a film. Alcohol-free, vegan, dermatologically-tested, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients; contains fragrance.
Best for: combination, normal, dry and sensitive skin; rough texture.Less suited to: fragrance-sensitive skin.
Shop The Bean Cleansing Oil"Washing my face makes it red."
Best Korean Cleansing Oils for Sensitive, Reactive Skin
Light textures and soothing botanicals, with as little rubbing as possible. Both contain plant essential oils, so patch-test if you react to scent.
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Light Cleansing Oil (200ml)
Centella calms while light plant oils dissolve makeup and sunscreen. Very fluid, so it glides without tugging. Alcohol-free, vegan, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients; contains essential oils.
Best for: oily, combination, normal and sensitive skin; daily SPF removal.Less suited to: skin that reacts to essential oils.
Shop The Centella Oil
IUNIK Calendula Complete Cleansing Oil (200ml)
The slip is the point: it dissolves makeup with almost no rubbing, and calendula soothes. Alcohol-free, vegan, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients; contains a little ylang-ylang oil.
Best for: combination, oily, normal, dry and acne-prone skin.Less suited to: skin that reacts to essential oils.
Shop The Calendula Oil"My face feels tight after every wash."
Best Korean Cleansing Oils for Dry Skin
Richer oils that leave skin soft rather than squeaky. Squeaky clean means stripped.
ma:nyo Pure Cleansing Oil (200ml)
A long-standing favourite in Korea, with soybean, hazelnut and other plant oils that leave a light moisture veil after rinsing. Alcohol-free, vegan, dermatologically-tested, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients; contains a little orange oil.
Best for: combination, dry and normal skin; blackheads on dry skin.Less suited to: skin that reacts to essential oils.
Shop The Pure Cleansing Oil
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil (150ml)
Rice bran and other plant oils cleanse and leave skin comfortable, with nothing added for scent. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, vegan, dermatologically-tested, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients.
Best for: dry, sensitive and oily skin; fragrance-sensitive skin.Less suited to: heavy waterproof makeup; use a balm.
Shop The Black Rice Oil"Waterproof mascara takes me three rounds to remove."
Best Korean Cleansing Balms for Heavy Makeup
Balms melt into oil on contact and grip long-wear makeup better than most oils.
Heimish All Clean Balm (120ml)
The balm that started the trend still removes long-wear makeup in one round. It has a fresh, citrusy scent from essential oils. Vegan and pregnancy-friendly.
Best for: combination, normal and dry skin; heavy makeup.Less suited to: skin or eyes sensitive to essential oils.
Shop The All Clean Balm
Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm (100ml)
Rice bran and sea buckthorn oils melt makeup and leave skin soft and luminous. Didn't sting my eyes. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, vegan, dermatologically-tested, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients.
Best for: dry, normal and sensitive skin; heavy makeup; sensitive eyes.Less suited to: very oily skin that prefers a light oil.
Shop The Radiance Balm"I'm too tired for a proper routine tonight."
Best Korean Cleansers for Lazy Nights
A no-spatula balm and a micellar water for the nights you barely make it to the sink.
Dr. Althea Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm (50ml)
The packaging is the fun part, but the fragrance-free formula is good too: light, melts quickly and rinses clean. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, vegan, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients.
Best for: oily, combination and sensitive skin; travel; hygiene fans.Less suited to: very dry skin wanting a rich balm.
Shop The Grinding Balm
COSRX Low pH Niacinamide Micellar Cleansing Water (400ml)
Removes light makeup and sunscreen with a cotton pad and leaves no oily residue. On makeup-heavy days, follow with a foam. Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, vegan, pregnancy-friendly and made with clean ingredients.
Best for: oily, combination, acne-prone and sensitive skin; quick nights.Less suited to: waterproof makeup on its own.
Shop The Micellar WaterYour Korean First-Cleanse Questions, Answered
Myths, double cleansing and how to rinse.
Will a cleansing oil break me out?
Usually not, if it emulsifies and rinses fully. Massage on dry skin, add a little water until milky, then rinse well. Choose a light oil if you're acne-prone.
Do I need to double cleanse every night?
Only when you've worn sunscreen or makeup, which for most people is most days. On a bare-skin day, one gentle cleanse is enough.
Oil or balm: which is better?
Oils are quicker and lighter; balms grip heavy and waterproof makeup better. Many people keep one of each.
Why does my face feel tight after cleansing?
That squeaky feeling usually means your cleanser is stripping too much. Switch to a more nourishing oil and a low-pH second cleanser.
Find your first cleanser
Cleansing oils, balms and micellar waters for every skin type. 100% authentic, delivered from our hubs in Switzerland and the EU to your door anywhere in Europe.
Explore All Cleansers
Leave a comment